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Old 4th January 2005, 13:20   #1
alyusuph
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Default 2LTe engine rebuild kits

I am a newbie in this forum and I would like to rebuild my 2lte engine which is currently smoking and leaking oil. what types of engine rebuild kits ara available in the market in the UK? and what are the estimate prices? What does the rebuild kit consist of? which is the best kit? who are the dealers? especially in London?
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Old 4th January 2005, 13:41   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alyusuph
I am a newbie in this forum and I would like to rebuild my 2lte engine which is currently smoking and leaking oil. what types of engine rebuild kits ara available in the market in the UK? and what are the estimate prices? What does the rebuild kit consist of? which is the best kit? who are the dealers? especially in London?
There isn't really a rebuild kit as such (as far as I am aware0 you will need to buy the parts separately or buy a short or long engine.

However I would suggest if the engine is smoking and leaking oil then you should look at the following areas.

1.Piston Rings (you can get these separately if the pistons are OK.

2.Bores - check wear if neccessary new liners or a small resurface and oversized pistons.

3.Valves - better to replace the valves and grind in if the head is OK or buy a complete new head including valves and camshaft (the head is the weakest point on the 2LTE - not on all of the though).

4. Injectors - a set of rebuilt ones will cost you around 70 UK money.

5. While the engine is apart then new big end and main bearings are worth doing. also get the crank checked for wear and straightness.

6. You will need a complete engine gasket set (actually the head gasket set will cover a large proportion as the other gaskets on the bottom end (like the sump) are made by running a line of silicon gasket material around the join.

7. You will need front and rear crankshaft oil seals.

Also worth doing the fuel pump top seal while the engine is out of the vehicle.

You don't mention where the oil leak is. Also what colour is the smoke - white/grey, Balck or blue. The colour of the smoke will indicate what areas you should look at.

White Grey - Head or head gasket - this smoke is actually steam from water entering the combustion chamber.
Blue - Oil burning - Valve guides/stems/seals, Piston rings
Blcak - Overfueling - Injectors, pump, EGR stuck open, blocked airfilter, low compression.

Hope that this helps.

Stevo on this forum may be able to help with a lot of the engine parts or tell you where you could get them.

Cheers
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Old 5th January 2005, 05:44   #3
alyusuph
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Default 2LTe engine rebuild kits

Thanks for the detaled advice. When it comes to the type of smoke, the surf emitts black smoke on initial acceleration, or when the turbo light is on, on steep hill climbs and at around 1800 revs it billows out white-grey smoke. The oil leaks in the radiator, no overheating at all even though atmospheric temperatures are currently at around 32 - 34 centigrade. Last weekend I drove it somewhere as far as 120 kms and it gulped a full litre of engine oil!

The turbo also shows signs of oil leaks, I am not certain if the oil comes from the crankcase breather or the turbo itself, because the inlet is also wet. I checked the turbo by opening the hose, there is a little play on the impellers.
There are no signs of oil in the exhaust. the turbo is not jammed at all.

Fuel consumption is also a bit on the higher end at 8 kilometres per litre.

Al-Amin
1991 2lte surf
163k on the clock
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Old 5th January 2005, 11:01   #4
lucky
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OK so I would suggest for this you need to do a top end rebuild, I would think the bottom end is pretty much OK.

The reason I say this is because of the following.

1. Black smoke on initial accelleration - All diesels do this to some extent however this is likely to be the injectors needing some attention, probably cleaning and new springs and needles.

2. Oil leaking into radiator - Head gasket knackered. This will most likely explain the white/grey smoke on hill climbs, some waer getting into the combustion chamber.

3. Turbo oil leaks, to be honest leave it alone until it falls apart. Probably Turbo oil seals gone. The negine will run quite fine with this, little bit of smoke maybe but nothing drastic. It will cost you quite a large amount of monet for a Turbo rebuild unless you do it yourself, you will need access to a hydraulic press.

4. Fuel consumption high. Combination of Injectors and cylinder head gasket, mainly injectors.

As long as the head is OK when you remove it, you should be able to complete this in a couple of days with the engine in the Surf as you can remove the head gasket, replace the injectors on the bench, generally clean up everything and then rebuild on the car.

You will need a Head Gasket Set, Try Stevo here or Milners or Roughtrax or UK Cylinder Heads. You will need a set of refurbished injectors (70 plus shipping for a set from UK cylinderheards - not sure whether they will ship, however you may be able to source locally).

Thats all you should need.

Cheers
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Old 5th January 2005, 15:28   #5
alyusuph
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Default 2lte rebuild kits

Thanks for this. The reason I asked for rebuild kits within the UK is because i usually visit the UK a few times in a year, and will be there next month too.
Hope it is only the top end as you said. I am so suprised to see the surfs motor falling apart at just 163,000 kilometres.

And a few more questions, does the 2lte require tappet adjustments? and if the worst comes and I am forced to rebuild the top and lower ends, what are the precautions that I should take when removing the engine from the bell housing, taking into consideration that mine has an auto trans?

i am so used to manual ones, this is the first auto in my life. feels like it is always clutch slipping
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Old 5th January 2005, 15:37   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alyusuph
Thanks for this. The reason I asked for rebuild kits within the UK is because i usually visit the UK a few times in a year, and will be there next month too.
Hope it is only the top end as you said. I am so suprised to see the surfs motor falling apart at just 163,000 kilometres.

And a few more questions, does the 2lte require tappet adjustments? and if the worst comes and I am forced to rebuild the top and lower ends, what are the precautions that I should take when removing the engine from the bell housing, taking into consideration that mine has an auto trans?

i am so used to manual ones, this is the first auto in my life. feels like it is always clutch slipping
Can't say that I have actually ever removed the engine on one. Did a top and bottom end rrebuild with the engine in the car recently on mine (new piston, bearings, head, cam, valves etc).

Really from my experience removing an engine from a car with an autobox is no different from a manual except on some you will need to unbolt the Torque converter from the flywheel to remove (done through an inspection plate at the front bottom of the bellhousing.

One thing is definately remove the radiator to allow you to pull the engine quite far forward before lifting it. The EGR pipe running at the back of the head gets in the way.

To be honest I would try to do what I suggested and do it leaving the engine in the car. It will take you around 5 hours or so to remove the head but once that is done you can do all that is neccessary.

The bottom end of the 2.4 is pretty robust so unless you have noise from it I would leave well alone. All the symptoms that you have can be explained by top end problems.

Plus while it is a long job, you should be able to do the whole thing pretty cheap - 200 for the parts or there abouts including new gasket, stretch bolts and injectors (refurb ones).

Stevo should be able to supply you the bits when you are over here.

Tappet adjustment is done by shims, you need to measure the gap, look at the proper gap and get the required shim to adjust.

Cheers
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Last edited by lucky; 5th January 2005 at 15:41..
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Old 5th April 2005, 21:27   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucky
1.Piston Rings (you can get these separately if the pistons are OK.

2.Bores - check wear if neccessary new liners or a small resurface and oversized pistons.

5. While the engine is apart then new big end and main bearings are worth doing. also get the crank checked for wear and straightness.

7. You will need front and rear crankshaft oil seals.

Also worth doing the fuel pump top seal while the engine is out of the vehicle.
Andy (or anyone else with the experience), I'm having trouble selling my busted head 2.4 because buyers are concerned (rightly so) that the timing belt snapping might have also damaged the bottom end.
Up till I stumbled across this thread tonite I thought I would have to remove the bottom end too in order to check out the conrods and all the things you describe above - crankshaft straightness, bores, piston rings. Are visual checks generally acceptable in other words does a bent crankshaft stand out when you see it?
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Old 5th April 2005, 22:01   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimL
Andy (or anyone else with the experience), I'm having trouble selling my busted head 2.4 because buyers are concerned (rightly so) that the timing belt snapping might have also damaged the bottom end.
Up till I stumbled across this thread tonite I thought I would have to remove the bottom end too in order to check out the conrods and all the things you describe above - crankshaft straightness, bores, piston rings. Are visual checks generally acceptable in other words does a bent crankshaft stand out when you see it?
Jim
It is one of those unknown quantum . How long is a piece of string ?
Shock loads of a direct vertical valve train impacting on the pistons may have bent , misaligned any of the lower end components that pure inspection will not show . X-rays for cracks may not show , stress loads just suddenly come out in a big way with a broken crank for no apparant reason later in the vehicle life .
Dont sound good does it .

Just my opinion of engines I have dealt with in 20 years of mechanicing .
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Old 5th April 2005, 22:32   #9
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I thought my engine was healthy...but best I can get is 7 K/ltr
Chris

Quote:
Originally Posted by alyusuph
Fuel consumption is also a bit on the higher end at 8 kilometres per litre.
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Old 6th April 2005, 08:44   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimL
Andy (or anyone else with the experience), I'm having trouble selling my busted head 2.4 because buyers are concerned (rightly so) that the timing belt snapping might have also damaged the bottom end.
Up till I stumbled across this thread tonite I thought I would have to remove the bottom end too in order to check out the conrods and all the things you describe above - crankshaft straightness, bores, piston rings. Are visual checks generally acceptable in other words does a bent crankshaft stand out when you see it?
Jim.

IMHO, a busted timing belt would at worst have damaged the top end and maybe shot the big ends, never seen a bent crankshaft from pistons hitting the valves, only from a broken conrod.

For peace of mind you could drop the sump and pull out the pistons and conrods (undo at the bottom, push out through the top), then you could mount a dial indicator somewhere and check the runout on the front extension of the crankshaft (about the best you can do with the crankshaft on the engine.

The first things to go when the top end goes, would be the pistons, then the small end bearings, then the big ends, then the conrods, then the crank, they are tough in that order with the crankshaft the toughest (built out of old bridge girders). The Piston will absorb most of the shock as it is soft and dents easily when being hit by a valve.

When I did my bottom end because of the dropped valve, I did it more because I already had the bottom apart to replace the pistons so although the big ends were OK, I changed them anyway as a precaution.

Just my opinion though.

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