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  • Fuel Pump Leak Garage wont touch it!?

    My fuel pump is leaking from under neath i have the seal kit but dont know how to do the cam belt,

    i have phoned every garage and Diesel specialest in the county NO one will touch it some say it has to be sent off to be recalibrated, others just say they cant do it. and the people that do the pump say i have to take it off and send it to them. . which i cant do cos of the cam belt etc. etc...

    kinda in the S*** here anyone know where i go from here? . . . or how to do the cam belt
    Its all fun and games till someone looses an eye!

  • #2
    Hi mate, Oh, another fuel pump eh, well do a search for diesel bob, he'll sort out the seals, or check the link to stevo's engine co on this site, he'll do the whole job I reckon.

    I checked and found some people near me in kent that will re-furb and set up the pump, once it's off the vehicle, and I would think most competent mechainics should be able to remove and refit the pump, it takes 6-8 hrs.

    I think legndmaster replaced his pump, and did a write up on how to do it, check that out, I gotta go walk the dog, back in an hour or so.
    Rob

    Still working for the man!

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by plumb bob View Post
      Hi mate, Oh, another fuel pump eh, well do a search for diesel bob, he'll sort out the seals, or check the link to stevo's engine co on this site, he'll do the whole job I reckon.

      I checked and found some people near me in kent that will re-furb and set up the pump, once it's off the vehicle, and I would think most competent mechainics should be able to remove and refit the pump, it takes 6-8 hrs.

      I think legndmaster replaced his pump, and did a write up on how to do it, check that out, I gotta go walk the dog, back in an hour or so.

      Cant find a member called legndmaster on here
      Its all fun and games till someone looses an eye!

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Larcen View Post
        Cant find a member called legndmaster on here
        legendgamesmaster

        Comment


        • #5
          http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/timingbelt.htm

          http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/fuelpump.htm

          Comment


          • #6
            Has anyone taken the fuel pump off?

            Does the wheel only go one one way, the belt wheel i mean cos ya sposed to keep them all in line . . . but then ya taking the fuel pump one off to get the pump out im just a little worried about lining the wheels up again to put the belt back on.
            Its all fun and games till someone looses an eye!

            Comment


            • #7
              I gave you all the information you need in my post above!

              I have circled the timing marks on the 2.4 engine here..............

              Comment


              • #8
                hey Larcen,

                I have just changed my timing belt on my 2.4 this weekend and it's not that bad. Admittedly it can take a long time but it's very doable.

                http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/forums/sh...ad.php?t=42587

                That was my post begging for help.

                I didn't change my diesel pump so on that front you're on your own.

                Best of luck and if you need any more help just drop me a line here and I can talk you through the bits I do know.

                Comment


                • #9
                  hi guys
                  yes it is a dog, but it is do-able at home.

                  You do need some specialist tools - a pulley /cog puller that fits the pulley wheels for a start - the halfrauds 'universal' one doesnt fit.. we made one ourselves to do the job.

                  when you remove the fuel pump cog, its on a conical shaft so it will be as tight as my wallet.... so put the pulley puller on, wind it up till you get some pressure, then give the cog a sharp tap with a long screw driver. it will go 'bang' and then should come off OK.

                  make sure you have a selection of long and short handled bits for your socket set, its a b4st4ard to get to some nuts.

                  its useful to slacken off the nuts holding the fuel pipes in place, and even remove them from the injectors, to get some lee-way.

                  dont forget to put the locating nut below the injector feeds back BEFORE you re-connect the injector lines, else you will curse much, and get another practice at re-installing the pump...

                  lining up the belts is OK but make sure they are tensioned correctly, and then turn over by had twice to make sure all the marking line up afer a full revolution. if they dont, you gone bugga'd it oop. start over.

                  I suggest a belt change at the same time.

                  I ended up removing the air con, thermostat housing and rad, but i intended to replace rad and remove the fooked aircon for good, so didnt mind doing that.

                  Dont start the engine with the ATF lines unhooked, unless you want ATFluid all over the drive. Did I do that? me? course not.....

                  yes, 6-8 hours is the time it takes.

                  Good Luck!!!
                  If you're gonna be a bear... be a Grizzly.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The easiest way to get pump pulley off is a couple of M10 bolts screwed throught the tapped holes in the pully and carefully jack it off against the casting behind.

                    Getting the bolt between the block and pump as a b/strd to do , up there with the starter motor bolts.
                    Should have bought a 3ltr

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Larcen View Post
                      Does the wheel only go one one way, the belt wheel i mean cos ya sposed to keep them all in line . . . but then ya taking the fuel pump one off to get the pump out im just a little worried about lining the wheels up again to put the belt back on.
                      I've just cured the same problem with mine, if your lucky it will just be the seal for the valve at the bottom of the pump, if your unlucky the valve itself will be leaking, and it might be cheaper to get a 2nd hand pump.

                      I find removing the air cleaner altogether gives a little more space, and someting less to scratch your hands on. It took me about 7 hours to remove and replace the pump, didn't take radiator off so took longer to get off the bottom pulley, although I've removed the aircon rad so there is a bit more space there

                      It's straight foreward enough just time consuming as lots of the bolts are in difficult places!
                      Bring me the head of a treehugger

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        havin trouble getting the rad off at the sec, im guessing the pipes at the bottom are attaching it to the air con rad . . but that big ass metal thing is in the way and i dont have any star keys that big so im a little screwd,

                        and i am expecting to hear bout a job soon and need this damn thing done
                        Its all fun and games till someone looses an eye!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Metal pipes are for ATF cooling, rad bolts easy to get to if remove both batteries, hate to say it but much worse to come,

                          Steve
                          Should have bought a 3ltr

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Nope 2 rubber pipes about an inch ta 1.5 inches right at the bottom dissappears under the engine one on each side of the rad , , gotto unbold and lift it as far as i cen just to reach them
                            Its all fun and games till someone looses an eye!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Larcen View Post
                              havin trouble getting the rad off at the sec, im guessing the pipes at the bottom are attaching it to the air con rad . . but that big ass metal thing is in the way and i dont have any star keys that big so im a little screwd,

                              and i am expecting to hear bout a job soon and need this damn thing done
                              star drivers not required - they are standard 13mm (i think) nut heads with added star internals.... at least mine were, i got em off with my socket set.

                              fun, innit!
                              If you're gonna be a bear... be a Grizzly.

                              Comment

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